Exotic winter menu at Mill’s Tavern

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We look forward every winter to the exotic menu prepared by Mill’s Tavern’s creative executive chef, Edward Bolus, a Johnson & Wales graduate who admits to extra special training from his mother and grandmother.

The tasting this year, the 14th anniversary of Mill’s Tavern, included items that are rarely seen on any menu in Rhode Island, attracting fine dining fans to the award-winning Providence restaurant.

We began with two oysters on the half shell, both prepared differently and accompanied by an unusual combination of Cocchi Americano topped with cucumber foam.

Our first course was a duo of rabbit roulade and corned duck breast with pickled mustard seeds, carrot ribbons, drunken cherries, frisee and cherry duck demi. It takes imagination and creativity to create this tasty appetizer.

When’s the last time you had wild boar? Bolus created a confit of wild boar risotto with buttered braised pearl onions, rosemary scallion pesto and spinach puree. Each course was paired with a fine wine, and accompanied by fresh Italian bread.

The third course was a honey mustard glazed wild Alaskan king salmon with pumpernickel crust, lemon dill spaetzle, scallions, fried capers and sauce Albert. Cooked rare to medium rare, the fish melts in your mouth. Bolin said that this is the first time in 14 years that the wild salmon has been available.

Time for a brief intermezzo and a scoop of mandarin orange sorbet.

For my last meal on earth, I would choose salmon. For me, there is no better taste on earth.

Ironically, it would be Joyce’s last choice, but she reluctantly tried it. I was expecting to finish her generous portion. To my surprise, and hers, she loved it, praising the lack of a “fishy” taste and the soft texture.

The waiter brought sharp knives to the table, as we were expecting dessert. But there was a fourth course, and what a treat it was. Pistachio coco nib encrusted venison loin, all the way from New Zealand’s deer farms, was wrapped in bacon with truffled wild mushroom farrotto, haricot vert and huckleberry gastrique. The sharp knives were not needed for this tender, gastronomic delight.

Executive pastry chef Samantha Del Arroyo, also a J & W grad, and nine year Mills employee, explained her exotic dessert, which centered around a melt-in-your-mouth white chocolate-matcha mousse and included buckwheat crumble, toasted coconut cream, a passion fruit curd, and a raspberry-hibiscus sorbet.

If, like Joyce and me, you haven’t a clue as to many of the accompaniments listed, don’t worry. The new and different tastes complement the meal and will open your eyes to the exotic pleasures of gourmet dining.

Not being a wine expert, I couldn’t honestly judge the merits of a Truchard Roussanne, Pierre Sparr Gewurtztraminer or Luccio Moscato D’Asti, but I do thank the wine steward for the excellent choices. If you enjoy fine wines, Mill’s Tavern is the place to dine.

And these are but a few of the eclectic offerings on the menu. The service is exceptional. The atmosphere is warm and cozy. The entire experience is like none other.

Mill’s Tavern is located at 101 North Main St. in Providence. Valet parking is available. For reservations call 272-3331, or check them out online at info@millstavern.

com. Dinner hours are 5-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5-11 Friday and Saturday, and 4-9 p.m. Sundays.

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